Breaking the Cycle: Rethinking Fashion’s Future

By Sine Gerstenberg. Photo: Nanna Reimers

The fashion industry faces immense challenges, from unsustainable production cycles to the pressure of constant sales and overproduction. Else Skjold, PhD and Associate Professor in Design and Sustainability at the Royal Danish Academy, shares her insights on how the industry can change its course—and what both emerging designers and established brands should focus on moving forward.

What do you see as the biggest challenge in fashion today?

The most pressing issue is that the industry is caught in a downward spiral of constant discounting. Over the years, this has conditioned consumers to prioritize price over quality, putting immense pressure on businesses—especially small and medium-sized brands, which make up the majority in Denmark. This race to the bottom means that investments in sustainability and circularity are rarely rewarded economically.

Why is it so difficult to break free from the cycle of excessive collections?

A major challenge lies in the retail sector, where brands are pressured to deliver frequent, varied collections. Reducing promotional campaigns and encouraging retailers—both online and physical—to sell at full price rather than relying on discounts would help shift industry dynamics. At trade fairs, for example, buyers demand constant novelty in the form of additional mid-season collections or product drops. However, these demands don’t necessarily translate into sales, leaving brands with unsold inventory and financial losses.

Which brands stand out in terms of alternative approaches to fashion production?

Rather than highlighting specific brands, I find it encouraging that production and collection strategies are being reconsidered across the board. Initiatives like the Danish Environmental Protection Agency’s industry collaboration projects are pushing these changes forward. Moving away from fast-moving seasonal trends towards fewer, higher-quality pieces is key to achieving true sustainability and circularity.

You work closely with future designers—how do they approach sustainable fashion?

Sustainability is deeply embedded in their education, and they are trained to think strategically about it. However, once they enter the industry, they often struggle to implement these ideas due to the existing business structures and economic constraints.

Are you hopeful or concerned about the future of fashion?

I am cautiously optimistic. Otherwise, I wouldn’t be doing what I do. That said, geopolitical shifts and the depletion of natural resources will force drastic industry changes—whether brands like it or not. Many companies will likely face bankruptcy if they fail to adapt their business models in time.

What advice would you give to emerging fashion talents?

• Understand that you are the future of fashion—go out and shape it.

• If the fashion industry doesn’t offer the right conditions, explore related fields like workwear or emerging jobs in textile management and recycling.

• There’s nothing wrong with loving fashion—fight for good clothing design throughout your career.

And what advice would you give to established brands?

• Streamline your collections and sharpen your design identity.

• Forget about chasing “sustainable,” “circular,” or “timeless” labels—focus on making truly good products for your customers.

• Sustainability and circularity aren’t just about materials—they require a fundamental strategic shift in how you run your core business.

BOKS

Else Skjold

PhD, Associate Professor in Design and Sustainability at the Royal Danish Academy

Founder of the MA program ‘Fashion, Clothing & Textiles: New Landscapes for Change’ (2020)

Head of Klothing – Centre for Apparel, Textiles & Ecology Research

Workstream Leader in TRACE – the national partnership for circular economy in plastics and textiles (trace.dk)

Member of the Council for Circular Transition / DAKOFA

Recipient of the Danish Arts Foundation’s KH Award (2023) for her contributions to design, research, and sustainability communication